Saturday , March 6 2021

Yotam Ottolenghi is eating on his new book, making it easy

Yotam Ottolenghi may not have invented the way we now want to eat, with all those small plates of bright, gentle, intercultural and veg-forward flavors. But no one, perhaps, did more to define it.

"My job is always to find it as a meal," he says. "This is an example of how to take a dish that seems to be familiar to people, but adds that it's a little twist."

The fascinatingly soft-spoken Israeli-British chef, author and general culinary star have recently promoted their latest cookbook in Vancouver, his seventh, called Ottolenghi Simple, and wants his sophisticated culinary offer even the most immense, time-crunchy domestic chef with money .

Cover of cookbook Ottolenghi Simple by Yotam Ottolenghi.

"Many people think that it's oxymoron that Ottolenghi has and" simply "in the same breath," she said harshly. But, recalls, "Simple not necessarily a recipe, but a cook who cooking a recipe."

While in town, he spoke with an exciting outlet crowd at Granville Island Stage, where he was interviewed by Cook's cook, co-owner and cook by Meeru Dhalwala. "I kind of feel like I'm representing George Clooney," she said when a star struck as anyone in the audience.

The event was organized by Vancouver Writers Fest, which is – good news for Vancouver's, surrounded by food – strives to add similar high-caliber culinary content to its year-round season.

"His kind of story interested in the representatives: a celebrated international chef who can talk about the importance of good food for communities and whose books and style are culturally justified and help to expand the conversation about good food and good life," says Leslie Hurtig, art director of the festival .

Then Ottolenghi took a few minutes to chat with us about cookbooks, culture, and pantries before we went to Toronto and then home to London. Now we're pretty upset.

If you somehow miss the culinary phenomenon, which is Ottolenghi, here is a little background. He was known to have been born and raised in the Jewish section of Jerusalem – an ancient world city, perhaps the largest cultural and culinary crossroads in the world – the parents of the German and Italian backgrounds.

"We had a lot of food in Europe, but everything that was outside was fascinating," recalls Ottolenghi. "That's one of the reasons why I get so varied."

He briefly thought about his career in academic careers, but he was aware of the immediate satisfaction of cooking for others and finished the chef in London.

Until 1999, he was the chief chef at Baker and Spice, where he met with Palestinian cook Sami Tamim. Both grew up on the opposite sides of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, only a few miles away, but the worlds are from each other. They associated with their common love for Middle Eastern food, and in 2002 opened the first delicious delicious restaurant in London. Since then, two divisions and three restaurants have followed.

"One of the ways that Sami and I have convinced people to be goodies in the Middle East is that we have modernized it with sets," says Ottolenghi, who shows dishes with fragrant herbs, walnut seeds and pepper olive oil. "We started selling food, if it did not look good, it did not sell. And to make humus look good, it's really hard work."

In 2006, Ottolenghi began writing a weekly newspaper, "New Vegetarian" in The Guardian. His approach was what he called a "vague vegetarian": although he still included meat dishes, he is the main vegetable cultivator.

"For me, the main cause was always a taste," he says. "And then there are all side reasons to enjoy vegetables."

Vegetables emphasize that they are healthy, cheap, sustainable and endlessly versatile. Take a modest cauliflower. You can enjoy it in steamed, fried, roasted, gratinéedu or raw, and more importantly, it is an endless variety of other flavors. "And this versatility does not apply to animal proteins," he says.

In 2008, he published his first cookbook, Ottolenghi, who was an immediate hit. They followed all the vegan books "Plenty and plenty more", followed by Jerusalem, Nopi, Sweet and now Ottolenghi Simple.

He believes in the value of home cooking, not just for placing food on the table, but also for gathering friends and family around this table.

"Every single one of my books was really focused on cooking at home," he said and pointed out that while his old books contained some complex and lengthy recipes, "techniques are not so complicated".

What's more, the recipes really work. Each recipe is tested eight to nine times in a test kitchen in North London, which is deliberately low technology as close as possible to the kitchen chef's kitchen. Nevertheless, they may be a challenge for chefs with time pressure, so the Guardian asked him a few years ago to write a series of simplified recipes. "It was very fun. That was the starting point," he says.

It was also more like cooking at home. He and his husband, Karl Allen, have two small children and do not have the time to make complicated meals, even if the children have had the patience to wait for them. Of course they are not alone.

"I never asked myself when people would cook my food until these books," says Ottolenghi.

When he realized that most of his dishes were so late, they could only do it at the end of the week or for special occasions, he decided to create a book for people who wanted to cook serious food every day. It became Ottolenghi Simple. But, she says, "Although there have been simplified recipes, I do not think they have lost any of these bold tastes."

SIMPLE is actually an acronym for the code of recipes; Everything that one person means by simple (must be on the table in 20 minutes) can be completely different from another definition (this should be done ahead of time). So, in the book, each recipe is marked with the letter: "S" refers to "short on time", "L" on lazy-day dishes "and so on.

"S and L are both for daytime cooking, P also for storage. On the other hand, M is pre-prepared for evening food and weekend and brunch foods," says Ottolenghi.

It also includes a handy part of the suggested menus and an even more convenient list of "10 ingredients that are delicious bombs." They include fork, sumac, pomegranate, preserved lemons and rose harriso, a North African Chilean paste with a subtle-rose taste.

"The idea is to save the stock with a number of great ingredients that I love and then get windy throughout the book," he says. "If you buy them, you have made the first step to cook from the book."

Readers who suppose that Ottolenghi is almost middle eastern food would be surprised to find recipes for Asian and Italian under the influence of dishes.

"I work with people from around the world," he says. For example, they use Indian, Malaysian, Singaporean and Thai cuisine-like spices (caraway, cardamom, cayenne, coriander), herbs (cilantro, meta) and spices (chilli, sour caraway, yoghurt) than those in the Middle Eastern cuisine.

"One of the things I'm trying to do is not only the food's characteristic of different cultures, but I'm trying to present people of different cultures," he says. "My kitchen is a good example of how it can be and produces great food. It's great to show the world how we all enjoy when the culture is united and involved."

He smiled. "For this reason, you think you might be able to do the same with people."

And this is the true way we would like to eat: peaceful, happy and delicious, we are all on the same table.

Note on recipes

The title of the new book, Yotam Ottolenghi, is simply an acronym of the code to the type of recipes it contains. Here's how it works:

S = short term

I = ingredients (10 or less)

M = take a step further

P = waterproof storage

L = lazy daily food

E = Easier than you think

Iranian plant plants.

RECIPA: Iranian herbs

2 cups (40 g) copra, finely chopped

2 cups (40 g) basil leaves, finely chopped

2 cups (40 g) sheets of cilantro, finely chopped

1½ tsp. (7 ml) of earth metal

1 cup (50 g) of fresh bread crumbs (from about 2 slices, the crust remains soft)

3 tbsp. (45 ml) barber (or currant)

1/3 cup (25 g) of walnut half, slightly baked and roughly chopped

8 large eggs beaten


¼ cup (60 ml) of sunflower oil, for frying


Place all ingredients, except oil, in a large bowl with ½ brush. (2 ml) of salt. Stir well to combine it and leave it set.

Put 2 tablespoons. (30 ml) of oil into a large watertight container and place it on medium high heat. When it's hot, add the pots to the pan. Make 4 fritters at a time if you can – you want each of them to be approximately 5 cm (12 cm) wide – otherwise, only 2 or 3 at a time. After 1 to 2 minutes on each side, fresh and golden brown. Transfer to a paper-to-paper paper towel and let the remainder of the liquid and oil.

Serve warm or at room temperature.

Make 8 fritters; Serves 4 to 8

RECIPE: a friend with a plum, a rock and a bay

Plum, blackberries and cove.

Plum, blackberries and cove.

Appetite by Random House

7 oz. (200 g) blackberry

4 mature plums, removed pits, cut into ½ inch (1 cm) wedges, 2½ cups (360 g)

1 tsp. (5 ml) vanilla extract

Rounded ¼ cup (60 g) of granulated sugar

3 fresh bay leaf

1 tsp. (5 ml) of terrestrial cinnamon

6 tbsp. (60 g) for multipurpose flour

1 2/3 cup (200 g) confectionary sugar, exceeded

1 cup (120 g) of almond meal

1/8 teaspoons. (0.5 ml) of salt

5¼ oz. (150 g) protein (4 or 5 large eggs)

¾ cups (180 g) unsalted butter, melted and slightly chilled


Place blackberries and plums in a bowl of vanilla, granulated sugar, bay leaf and ½ brush. (2 ml) cinnamon. Leave for 30 minutes. Do not try to let them sit around for longer than this, because the fruit will become too juicy.

Heat the oven to 400 F (200 C).

Mix flour, confectionery sugar, almonds flour, the remaining ½ teaspoons. cinnamon and salts in a separate large bowl. To put aside.

Smooch the red egg for 30 seconds so that they begin to heel. Mix the mixture of flour with dissolved butter until the combination.

Add dough in a 9-x-13-inch (23 × 33 cm) parchment-coated dish and evenly flush with fruit and juices. Bake for 60 minutes, cover the foil container in the last 10 minutes until the cake becomes golden brown and the fruit fights. Leave 10 minutes before serving.

Serves 6.

Reproduced with permission of Ottolenghi Simple: Cookbook Yotam Ottolenghi, Copyright © 2018. Published by Appetite by Random House, a print of Penguin Random House Canada. (S M L L E)

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